Hunters in Igloolik, Nunavut, have traditionally relied on the stable permafrost beneath the gravel surface for preparing Igunaq, a prized Inuit delicacy made from fermented walrus. However, the thawing permafrost and unstable ground conditions are now challenging this practice, leading to adjustments in tradition and raising health concerns.
To create Igunaq, hunters cut into the walrus, sew the meat and fat back into the skin, and bury it in or on the permafrost for months to ferment. The process involves burying the meat on a granite stone to facilitate air circulation without exposure to light.
According to David Irngaut, a respected hunter from Igloolik, there has been a noticeable change in the permafrost accessibility. Inuit hunters are now digging deeper due to the permafrost becoming harder to reach.
As per a 2022 report from the Canadian Climate Institute, permafrost thawing has been accelerating across the North, leading to unstable ground conditions that impact various aspects of life, including traditional food storage practices like fermenting walrus meat. The report highlights the risks of unstable ground layers, which can make the fermentation process more challenging and increase the likelihood of food spoilage and disease transmission.
The changing landscape has affected the ideal fermentation conditions in Igloolik, where historically, the gravel, limestone, and slate terrain provided optimal settings for fermentation. Loek Pascaud, a master’s student at the University of Sherbrooke, is studying these environmental shifts and their impact on traditional practices.
With the rising temperatures, there are new food safety risks associated with fermenting Igunaq. Public health agencies have warned about the potential for botulism outbreaks linked to fluctuating temperatures during marine mammal fermentation. The Nunavik Regional Board of Health and Social Services suggest starting the traditional aging process in the fall when temperatures are cooler to mitigate these risks.
Climate change is also affecting other traditional food practices, such as seal fermentation in Kimmirut. Hunter Sandy Akavak notes that warming conditions are disrupting the traditional methods of fermenting whole seals outdoors due to the lack of consistent cold air temperatures.
Both Akavak and Irngaut express concerns about the future of these traditional practices as climate change continues to impact the environment, potentially leading to the loss of these age-old methods of preserving and preparing meat.